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TechnographNew York fashion switches gears
Moving away from chunky, comfy chic, designers slim down waists, silhouettes
By The Associated Press
Posted: 2/6/07 Section: Diversions
NEW YORK - There's more classic tailoring on the New York Fashion Week runways than in recent memory and there's also a lot of shine. Designers are still making the case that fall is about chunky knit sweaters, but they have slimmed down the overall silhouette after a few seasons of over-the-top volume.
"There's a lot of suiting, which is terrific, and a return to great tailoring," Nicole Fischelis, fashion director of Macy's East, said Monday from the front row at Carolina Herrera. "There's also a lot of day to evening, and evening to day. They're active clothes for a real lifestyle."
Fashion Week, attended by retailers, editors and stylists, continues through Friday.
Oscar de la Renta: One of the top emerging trends is the mixture of different fabrics on a single garment. Oscar de la Renta hit on this right out of the gate - but of course in the most luxurious way: He trimmed his chunky knit sweaters with fur. Expect to see those sweaters, worn with black satin tights and furry flat-heeled boots in the apres-ski lounges in St. Moritz at Christmas-time. There also was an outstanding hand-woven, full-length mink tweed coat that had that same snuggly look.
Cindi Leive, editor in chief of "Glamour," said she particularly liked the way de la Renta paired brown-tone fur with gray. "When you wear fur with gray, it doesn't look as hard as it does with black. It's more natural. I say wear fur with brown and gray instead of black - it's not so in your face," she said.
De la Renta's show wasn't without color, though. A silk column dress with a halter neck and belted waist came alive in bright fuchsia and an asymmetrical cowl-neck taffeta gown was simple in its structure, but the print, a mix of purple, yellow, red and green, made it special.
The cocktail dresses mostly stuck to de la Renta's successful recipe of fitted bodices, flared skirts and touches of embellishment. Why mess with a winner?
Carolina Herrera: Herrera presented a rich, textured fall line, that will give her chic uptown customer something new and fresh to wear without stepping out of her comfort zone.
"There's a lot of suiting, which is terrific, and a return to great tailoring," Nicole Fischelis, fashion director of Macy's East, said Monday from the front row at Carolina Herrera. "There's also a lot of day to evening, and evening to day. They're active clothes for a real lifestyle."
Fashion Week, attended by retailers, editors and stylists, continues through Friday.
Oscar de la Renta: One of the top emerging trends is the mixture of different fabrics on a single garment. Oscar de la Renta hit on this right out of the gate - but of course in the most luxurious way: He trimmed his chunky knit sweaters with fur. Expect to see those sweaters, worn with black satin tights and furry flat-heeled boots in the apres-ski lounges in St. Moritz at Christmas-time. There also was an outstanding hand-woven, full-length mink tweed coat that had that same snuggly look.
Cindi Leive, editor in chief of "Glamour," said she particularly liked the way de la Renta paired brown-tone fur with gray. "When you wear fur with gray, it doesn't look as hard as it does with black. It's more natural. I say wear fur with brown and gray instead of black - it's not so in your face," she said.
De la Renta's show wasn't without color, though. A silk column dress with a halter neck and belted waist came alive in bright fuchsia and an asymmetrical cowl-neck taffeta gown was simple in its structure, but the print, a mix of purple, yellow, red and green, made it special.
The cocktail dresses mostly stuck to de la Renta's successful recipe of fitted bodices, flared skirts and touches of embellishment. Why mess with a winner?
Carolina Herrera: Herrera presented a rich, textured fall line, that will give her chic uptown customer something new and fresh to wear without stepping out of her comfort zone.
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